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Thread: How To: Install OTTP stage2 transmission mounts

  1. #1

    Default How To: Install OTTP stage2 transmission mounts

    well Maven asked me to join over here from cobaltss.net and post my instructions on how to install the Over The Top Performance stage2 trans mounts. so...here ya go.

    I do not reccomend these instructions for impatient people. This needs to be done very carefully as the THREE mounts will be loosened/uninstalled at one point.
    Use a 2x4 inbetween the jacks and engine.

    By the way, don't complain about not having a lift or anything, i did all this with the car just up on ramps. I also had the downpipe and catback removed so i could install the hahn exhaust, but having the downpipe removed gave me an ungodly amount of space to move around in, if you can remove the downpipe for this, i strongly reccomend it.

    "tighten(ed) down" means....no play at all.
    "rear trans bracket(18mm)"VVVV

    "REAR THREE MOUNT TO SUBFRAME BOLTS(15mm)"VVVV

    FRONT TRANS MOUNT BOLTS(18mm). LEFT=MOUNT TO SUBFRAME. MIDDLE&RIGHT=MOUNT TO TRANS


    step1: Place hydrolic jack under trans.
    step2: Place floor jack under oil pan(as close to pass. side as possible)
    step3: Loosen the three bolts on the top of the passenger side upper engine mount BUT DO NOT TAKE THEM OUT!!!! LEAVE THEM THREADED!!!! ...just loosen them to allow a little movement(about .250")
    step4: Remove front transmission mount via the three bolts
    step5: Remove the WHOLE rear transmission mount assembly(mount, heatshield/bracket) via the three bolts on the bottom of the mount and the three bolts on the mount to trans bracket. LEAVE THE BOLT THAT GOES THROUGH THE MOUNT UNTIL IT IS ALL OFF THE CAR!!!! (it will all come out in one piece.....if it doesnt, you screwed up). once you can move it around, pull out the 02 electrical connections. its got a "christmastree type connection into the mount.
    step6: Seperate the mount and bracket via the main bolt through the mount
    step7: Reinstall bracket via the three bolts (WITHOUT THE MOUNT!!!) and tighten down.
    step8: Install rear trans mount via the three mount to subframe bolts and tighten down.
    step9: Install front trans mount via the two mount to trans bolts and leave loose. Install main bolt through the mount and start the thread it slightly, leave it loose as well.
    AT THIS POINT, BOTH OTTP MOUNTS SHOULD BE ON THE CAR. FRONT SHOULD HAVE ALL THREE BOLTS LOSSELY IN. REAR SHOULD HAVE THE BRACKET ATTATCHED TO THE TRANS AND THE MOUNT ATTACHED TO THE FRAME, BOTH OF WHICH SHOULD BE TIGHTENED DOWN.step10: (Extra set of hands is useful here) Using the hydrolic jack under the transmission, start to jack it upwards untill the bolt that connects the rear trans mount to the bracket will go through(this is a fairly good amount in terms of engine movement)
    AT THIS POINT, ALL BOLTS SHOULD BE ON THE CAR AND ALL THE WAY OR LOOSELY TIGHTENED
    step11: Tighten the three bolts on the upper motor mount back down all the way and remove the jack from under the oil pan
    step12: Tighten up ALL BOLTS on the front and rear trans mounts and remove the hydrolic jack SLOWLY, this is when everything will settle back down.
    step13: Go for a LIGHT!!! (DO NOT HIT BOOST, DO NOT HIT MORE THAN 3K RPMS) drive around the block and pull back up the ramps. Yhis will allow the bolts/mounts to do any final movement
    step14: Give everything a final tightening to trq specs.
    :cssNET:

    INSTALLED PICTURES









  2. #2
    3V1L 833

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    Approved. Thanks for posting man.

  3. #3
    Important Guy
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    Welcome.
    Quote Originally Posted by USMCFieldMP View Post
    Girlfriend's are easily/cheaply replaceable... perfect cars are not.

    *Official new car troll.

  4. #4

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    no problem maven. if i had my cobalt still i'd write a lot more how to's over simple things like removing the rear seats and back rest. removing passenger seat. removing the radio. removing the dash trim. i mean i could still do it but i wouldn't be able to do it with pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by B.rad View Post
    Welcome.

  5. #5
    Apprentice RecklessactN is an unknown quantity at this point
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    i haz the knowledge.... and the car those pics were from my old ottp stg1 install how to haha, your write up is definitely better bc getting that front mount on was a pita and i never thought to losen the top mount... but then again i was one of the first to get the mounts on production release

  6. #6

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    yeah i had to use your before install pics haha. didn't think of taking my own.

  7. #7
    Post Master General G85 SS is an unknown quantity at this point
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    Cool deal. Got these pulled off my old LSJ and now they're going on my LNF. w00t!

  8. #8
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    I used this
    I love my SquishyFishy
    I LIKE CAKE LOL

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  10. #10
    Must Look With Hands. RooTBeeR is an unknown quantity at this point RooTBeeR's Avatar
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    i got sent 6 spacers total somehow lol

  11. #11
    GMSC Vendor

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    nice writeup. i just did mine when the subframe was out for the clutch!
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  12. #12

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    how are yours holdin' up Omi??
    2006 Cobalt SS/SC. 2.8, 60s, Intake, header back, h/e, meth. 273/250 dynojet
    2005 Cobalt SS/SC. BW S262 billet wheel .70a/r turbine ZZP engine. 591/477 mustang dyno

  13. #13
    Apprentice Black SS/SC 06 is an unknown quantity at this point
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    Quote Originally Posted by RecklessactN View Post
    i haz the knowledge.... and the car those pics were from my old ottp stg1 install how to haha, your write up is definitely better bc getting that front mount on was a pita and i never thought to losen the top mount... but then again i was one of the first to get the mounts on production release
    Troof, the front mount was a PITA.

  14. #14
    Powell RaceShop

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    loosening off the three mount to trans bolts on the drivers side will assist as well. Cobalt is harder for that than a redline..
    blue is fastah

  15. #15
    Powell RaceShop

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    Quote Originally Posted by RooTBeeR View Post
    i got sent 6 spacers total somehow lol
    sean cant count...
    blue is fastah

  16. #16
    Must Look With Hands. RooTBeeR is an unknown quantity at this point RooTBeeR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwikredline View Post
    sean cant count...
    well i had ordered 2stg 2 but and some other parts but he only had front mount at the time, so he sent me front mount + 4 spacers with my other parts. then finally sent out the rear mount with 2 more spacers with it lol

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwikredline View Post
    loosening off the three mount to trans bolts on the drivers side will assist as well. Cobalt is harder for that than a redline..
    i didn't loosen mine, but for someone who is going to or wants to don't you have to unbolt the fuse box and the mount is right under it?
    2006 Cobalt SS/SC. 2.8, 60s, Intake, header back, h/e, meth. 273/250 dynojet
    2005 Cobalt SS/SC. BW S262 billet wheel .70a/r turbine ZZP engine. 591/477 mustang dyno

  18. #18
    Must Look With Hands. RooTBeeR is an unknown quantity at this point RooTBeeR's Avatar
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    ^newb

    i didnt do my drivers side for a long time i still woulld get a tad bit o' hop, so not smooth spin everytime, more like "traction control" was on and theyd chirp rapidly

  19. #19
    Humping COWS!!!!!!!!!!!!! xnigelx is an unknown quantity at this point xnigelx's Avatar
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    what are the trq specs for the front mount and the spacer peice? i didnt see them on the how to.

  20. #20

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    Front Transmission Mount Bolts
    50 N·m
    37 lb ft

    Front Transmission Mount Through Bolt
    100 N·m
    74 lb ft

    Rear Transmission Mount Bracket to Transmission Bolts
    60 N·m
    44 lb ft

    Rear Transmission Mount Through Bolt
    100 N·m
    74 lb ft

    Rear Transmission Mount to Frame Bolts
    60 N·m
    44 lb ft
    2006 Cobalt SS/SC. 2.8, 60s, Intake, header back, h/e, meth. 273/250 dynojet
    2005 Cobalt SS/SC. BW S262 billet wheel .70a/r turbine ZZP engine. 591/477 mustang dyno

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