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Thread: Ion to Cobalt spring conversion

  1. #21
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    Cool, I'll be needing this when my parts show from OTTP!

    John, get my email?
    - the "other" blue redline -

    I've spent 90% of my money on cars, guns and airplanes.
    The rest I've wasted.

  2. #22
    Powell RaceShop

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    TTMR the spacers go under the white bearing. The tab on the hat faces the inside of the car at about 11 o'clock if you face the strut from the wheel. The Pedders spring coils are not always cut at the top in line with the bottom cut like production springs.
    if this is not enough let me know. thanks
    blue is fastah

  3. #23
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    Wilco, but This seems strait forward.
    - the "other" blue redline -

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  4. #24
    I know nothing! ac66bronco is an unknown quantity at this point ac66bronco's Avatar
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    now i feel like a dumb ass for pming john about this lol

  5. #25
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    john... YOU DA MAN!!

  6. #26
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    Got this done, Thanks again John.
    - the "other" blue redline -

    I've spent 90% of my money on cars, guns and airplanes.
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  7. #27
    Powell RaceShop

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    UPDATE:

    I pulled the struts after a summer of use to see how it was all going. Two things:
    #1
    The updated bearings are all white, and made different from early bearings - white with black bottom. Try to get the new ones, they will stay in place easier.

    #2
    There are two arbor shims, one thick and one thin. It appears that it is possible to displace the bearing when its shimmed up with two shims (and especially if you have an older bearing with a black bottom) they dont seat that well in the spring hat. Therefore I suggest one thick shim below the bearing, and one thin shim above the bearing it will assist in making it easier to re-assemble the strut and not displace the bearing off the hat seat.








    enjoy your ride...
    Last edited by qwikredline; 09-20-2010 at 03:38 PM.
    blue is fastah

  8. #28
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    Hmm, wonder if this might have anything to do with my springs going "boing" when I turn the wheel.

    Clunck is rack vs trans mount, rotated in my future.
    - the "other" blue redline -

    I've spent 90% of my money on cars, guns and airplanes.
    The rest I've wasted.

  9. #29
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    Cobalt SC FE5 Front Spring Seat 22687774
    Item #22687774
    22687774 Cobalt SC FE5 Front Spring Seat
    2 required
    MSRP: $38.51 Your Price: $28.88


    this is the old bearing its cheaper.

    Qty:
    Cobalt TC FE5 Front Spring Seat 22712116
    Item #22712116
    22712116 Cobalt TC FE5 Front Spring Seat
    2 required
    MSRP: $65.42 Your Price: $49.07

    This is the new bearing. It is better. It costs more.

    http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...ents-C515.aspx for pictures to see what I mean
    blue is fastah

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTMR View Post
    Hmm, wonder if this might have anything to do with my springs going "boing" when I turn the wheel.

    Clunck is rack vs trans mount, rotated in my future.
    you will break something if you have put too large a spacer and the rack is hitting the mount. Not good to go on track with that...
    blue is fastah

  11. #31
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    Yep, spacers comming out shortly.

    Will return later with rotated mount, I'll have to live with the bump steer for a bit.
    - the "other" blue redline -

    I've spent 90% of my money on cars, guns and airplanes.
    The rest I've wasted.

  12. #32
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    what year is the redline u running 04 or 05 and up?
    blue is fastah

  13. #33
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    I've got the bastard step child 2004
    - the "other" blue redline -

    I've spent 90% of my money on cars, guns and airplanes.
    The rest I've wasted.

  14. #34
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    I gotta core for you so possible to make it and bring it to totd
    blue is fastah

  15. #35
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    Damn you I'm BROKE!!!!


    PM Me a price and I'll see if I can do it........... Credit card company must LOVE me
    - the "other" blue redline -

    I've spent 90% of my money on cars, guns and airplanes.
    The rest I've wasted.

  16. #36
    Powell RaceShop

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    UPDATE
    try putting one spacer below (thick) and one spacer on top , of the bearing. Use a little rtv or weatherstrip adhesive to keep them in place when releasing spring tension. Remember the tab on the top hat lines up with the coil spring end...
    blue is fastah

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