lolwut
There's a lot more to heat exchanging than surface area and volume.
OP if you're looking for more power, cams are towards the back of the back...and essentially what an engine is, is an air pump. You have to get more air in and more air out...so when you rev more you are moving more air. What cams basically do to my understanding is make it so you can take advantage of the more air that is present in the higher part of the rev range and move it more efficiently
I would port and springs a head, I wouldn't cam an Eco unless I needed to stay N/A
If I didn't do cams now, how hard is it to add later? Would head have to come off again?
its true. the chiwanese front mount is worse than stock.
if you want iat2 that never exceed 130 degrees even on the dyno on the eight consecutive pull, then the big race griffin is the answer. OTT may have a couple left. its all about performance versus cost. why spend all that money making power, if its gonna evaorate when the temps go up?
If buyin a race griffin, use credit card or some form of payment that can back you up if it goes sideways my advice.
NO.
you can add cams at anytime. Just dont lol.
checkout Todd's post (RTBlue) runs complete under car panels and diffiuser, and my trap door pan. Also put in cams at ZZP and a whole bunch of other work. 400 whp.
ZZP evidently did a real nice job. I would suggest professional install of major engine improvements. Not cheep.
http://www.ontariocobaltclub.com/com...seen#msg334008
RTblue's OCC post.
Wow, wow, wow... The past few days has been quite busy for the gangs at ZZP in Grand Rapids.. I am still can't believed it all came together and got it all done in such short time and planning.
My goal is to have a DD with over 400whp. I'd tried doing so a few years back in a SRT-4 but that project didn't work out the way I wanted and neither was the inheritance of a large bill for that experiment. Learned my lesson. Don't be the pioneer in anything unless you have a very very deep pocket. My goal has finally came true this past week. Big thanks to ZZP Tim, Matt, and Mr. installer/fabricator (sorry I'd forgotten your name, my apology)..
S256 turbo kit with recirculated dump tube with cat.
stage 1 cams
Upgraded springs,
Mod fuel pump lobe
stage 4 clutch with fidanza flywheel
tune
Low boost - 17 psi
high boost - 25 psi (adjustable)
407 whp, 388 wtq. corrected... my goal and priority is reliability, I don't really care about what hp I make. The car has exactly the same gas mileage as the trip down with cruise control set at same cruising speed. That's about the only thing that is the same as stock.. The car pulls hard even at low boost, I have yet to try high on my trip back because on US gas. The only one time when I went out for a drive with Tim with what ever that was left of the 94 in my tank. I don't see why I need to use high boost. With the spool of the turbo and blow off valve going off, your competition should get the message.
The clutch does chatters at idle and some driving conditions that's the trade off for wanting a light weight flywheel. This was not a surprise to me as I have past experienced with lighten flywheel. The pedal is as light if not even lighter feel than stock. That was kind of nice. I guess the window to drive the car is getting shorter with snow will be coming any day now. But there's much to look forward to next spring?
My next mod on the list will be to mod/strengthen the tranny, but until then, I will concentrate on paying off this bill. Got to pay to play and worth it...
I am glad we have vendors such as ZZP, and also John Powell for making quality/tested parts for our cars....
I would love to Turbo swap.... but would like to take tvs route with the car.
If I go snail it'll be on a cavi ls
Yea Well Im Gonna Build Me A Theme Park With Blackjack And Hookers And Boose Well Forget The Theme Park