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Thread: ZZP SC Stage 2 Cam Questions

  1. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by Omnigear View Post
    idk one of the guys here might know where to get the nbs might as well get the delete since there wont b a moving object for the same purpose ^_^
    I completely agree

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by recaro86 View Post
    John hates those front mounts lol. He will reply something like Griffin> all. It's just difficult to justify the 400 or so for that unit imop.
    lolwut

    There's a lot more to heat exchanging than surface area and volume.

    OP if you're looking for more power, cams are towards the back of the back...and essentially what an engine is, is an air pump. You have to get more air in and more air out...so when you rev more you are moving more air. What cams basically do to my understanding is make it so you can take advantage of the more air that is present in the higher part of the rev range and move it more efficiently

    I would port and springs a head, I wouldn't cam an Eco unless I needed to stay N/A

  3. #43

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    If I didn't do cams now, how hard is it to add later? Would head have to come off again?

  4. #44
    Powell RaceShop

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    Quote Originally Posted by recaro86 View Post
    John hates those front mounts lol. He will reply something like Griffin> all. It's just difficult to justify the 400 or so for that unit imop.
    its true. the chiwanese front mount is worse than stock.

    if you want iat2 that never exceed 130 degrees even on the dyno on the eight consecutive pull, then the big race griffin is the answer. OTT may have a couple left. its all about performance versus cost. why spend all that money making power, if its gonna evaorate when the temps go up?
    If buyin a race griffin, use credit card or some form of payment that can back you up if it goes sideways my advice.
    blue is fastah

  5. #45
    Powell RaceShop

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    Quote Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC View Post
    If I didn't do cams now, how hard is it to add later? Would head have to come off again?
    NO.
    you can add cams at anytime. Just dont lol.
    checkout Todd's post (RTBlue) runs complete under car panels and diffiuser, and my trap door pan. Also put in cams at ZZP and a whole bunch of other work. 400 whp.

    ZZP evidently did a real nice job. I would suggest professional install of major engine improvements. Not cheep.

    http://www.ontariocobaltclub.com/com...seen#msg334008
    blue is fastah

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwikredline View Post
    its true. the chiwanese front mount is worse than stock.

    if you want iat2 that never exceed 130 degrees even on the dyno on the eight consecutive pull, then the big race griffin is the answer. OTT may have a couple left. its all about performance versus cost. why spend all that money making power, if its gonna evaorate when the temps go up?
    If buyin a race griffin, use credit card or some form of payment that can back you up if it goes sideways my advice.
    ugh really theyre the only ones that have it? damn. my cahones really arent big enough to deal with them over this.....ANYbody else? lol

  7. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwikredline View Post
    NO.
    you can add cams at anytime. Just dont lol.
    checkout Todd's post (RTBlue) runs complete under car panels and diffiuser, and my trap door pan. Also put in cams at ZZP and a whole bunch of other work. 400 whp.

    ZZP evidently did a real nice job. I would suggest professional install of major engine improvements. Not cheep.

    http://www.ontariocobaltclub.com/com...seen#msg334008
    cant see it as im not a registered member I ar sad pandas

  8. #48
    Powell RaceShop

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    RTblue's OCC post.


    Wow, wow, wow... The past few days has been quite busy for the gangs at ZZP in Grand Rapids.. I am still can't believed it all came together and got it all done in such short time and planning.

    My goal is to have a DD with over 400whp. I'd tried doing so a few years back in a SRT-4 but that project didn't work out the way I wanted and neither was the inheritance of a large bill for that experiment. Learned my lesson. Don't be the pioneer in anything unless you have a very very deep pocket. My goal has finally came true this past week. Big thanks to ZZP Tim, Matt, and Mr. installer/fabricator (sorry I'd forgotten your name, my apology)..

    S256 turbo kit with recirculated dump tube with cat.
    stage 1 cams
    Upgraded springs,
    Mod fuel pump lobe
    stage 4 clutch with fidanza flywheel
    tune

    Low boost - 17 psi
    high boost - 25 psi (adjustable)

    407 whp, 388 wtq. corrected... my goal and priority is reliability, I don't really care about what hp I make. The car has exactly the same gas mileage as the trip down with cruise control set at same cruising speed. That's about the only thing that is the same as stock.. The car pulls hard even at low boost, I have yet to try high on my trip back because on US gas. The only one time when I went out for a drive with Tim with what ever that was left of the 94 in my tank. I don't see why I need to use high boost. With the spool of the turbo and blow off valve going off, your competition should get the message.
    The clutch does chatters at idle and some driving conditions that's the trade off for wanting a light weight flywheel. This was not a surprise to me as I have past experienced with lighten flywheel. The pedal is as light if not even lighter feel than stock. That was kind of nice. I guess the window to drive the car is getting shorter with snow will be coming any day now. But there's much to look forward to next spring?
    My next mod on the list will be to mod/strengthen the tranny, but until then, I will concentrate on paying off this bill. Got to pay to play and worth it...

    I am glad we have vendors such as ZZP, and also John Powell for making quality/tested parts for our cars....
    blue is fastah

  9. #49

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    I would love to Turbo swap.... but would like to take tvs route with the car.

    If I go snail it'll be on a cavi ls

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steddy View Post
    lolwut

    There's a lot more to heat exchanging than surface area and volume.

    OP if you're looking for more power, cams are towards the back of the back...and essentially what an engine is, is an air pump. You have to get more air in and more air out...so when you rev more you are moving more air. What cams basically do to my understanding is make it so you can take advantage of the more air that is present in the higher part of the rev range and move it more efficiently

    I would port and springs a head, I wouldn't cam an Eco unless I needed to stay N/A
    cams enable the engine to take in more air and fuel and let alot more of the spent out which in turn relates to more power and with cams it is always a trde off you either get more low to mid or mid to high. and a forced inducted eco response rather well to cams
    Yea Well Im Gonna Build Me A Theme Park With Blackjack And Hookers And Boose Well Forget The Theme Park

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